Don’t usually write travel updates but in celebration of my first visit to sub-Saharan Africa and my 2nd time into the southern hemisphere (I think)…
Dakar. Built up. Dirty. No space. Hassle. People didn't rip you off though even negotiating currency and taxi rates in airport at 3am. Too many from Ivory Coast finding refuge from war and terror crammed into a small peninsular so not surprising. Housing costs sky high. Shame for residents and refugees alike.
Nairobi. Arrive 5am leave 10pm. Seems busy but with areas of green garden calm. Crazy airport security. Want to see more of the place.
Kampala. Most beautiful airport I've seen. Gliding down over Lake Victoria with sun setting. Green with occasional fires in the bush. Night drive to city fascinating roadside full of vibrant life. From country to fuel filled town. Bit like Nairobi with garden districts. Some lovely tranquill areas. Lucky to stay at Sheritan hotel with fearsome strutting storks an oasis overlooking city centre and the 7 hills Kampala is built on (like Rome) - though some demoted as tops lopped off for construction materials and a few more taken their place as the city's expanded. Really friendly people but can sense tension after elections with the amount of police and NGO offices and their shiny big 4WDs (NGOs not the police - mine was an original beat up farmers Land Rover which had done the rounds a fair few times). Obvious difference in wealth between cyclists / motorbikes and the private big cars. Felt safe but guess I'm not gay or actively support an opposition party. Human Rights activists and defenders feel anything but safe. Context and perception are everything.
Result of visit – neck ache (3 nights in 6 on planes) useful input for planning (the trip was business not pleasure) and a strong desire to return…
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